Saturday, March 8, 2014

Use Flash On Your Digital Camera

Use Flash on Your Digital Camera


You might think, why talk about flash? It is easy; just take a picture and the flash flashes when it wants. It is much more complicated than that. There are many more settings for flash then just automatic. However, this article will also introduce other lighting as well.


Instructions


1. Terms:


Fill flash - force camera to use the flash, also known as flash on or forced flash.


Flash guide numbers - measure of ability to illuminate. Some cameras only have one value.


Inverse square law - if distance between flash and subject doubles, one fourth the amount of light will reach subject; if halved, four times the amount of light will reach the subject.


Ambient Light - the available light.


Hot Spots - over exposed areas.


Flash Synchronization Speed - Fastest usable shutter speed with flash, usually 1/125 to 1/500.


2. Here are some basics of flash for you to learn:


Flash can cause harsh shadows on the walls behind the subject and can also overexpose the subject. To get around these effects, try reflecting the light off of ceilings, walls, or reflectors. Also, built-in flashes have less pleasing results than external flash. External flash also makes it easier to move the light away from your subject.


The guide number tells you the power of the flash. Some calculations you might want to know are: Calculate maximum flash range by dividing guide number by aperture value and then multiplying by the ISO (in feet). Calculate aperture value by dividing guide number by flash guide number and then multiplying by the ISO. Calculate guide number by multiplying aperture value and distance from subject.


Less light will hit subjects that are farther from the flash causing closer subjects to be illuminated. This is described by inverse square law.


With flash, you can freeze action, illuminate subjects, and balance lighting. If deciding not to use the flash, get better results by increasing ISO, using a self-timer or remote, and by using a tripod. Remember, when flash is off, long exposure times can create blurring.


Also, if the shutter speed is too fast and above the flash synchronization speed, the flash will not fully expose all parts of the image.


3. There are a couple of flash settings you can use:


Fill flash - is a lower intensity flash than the main flash that is used for portraits on bright days to add sparkle to eyes or with unbalanced ambient lighting that is creating a shadowed subject. It helps eliminates shadows such as those cast by facial features or hats, decreases or adjusts contrast, make colors and textures softer, and can give accurate color balance in weird lighting.


Red eye reduction - (symbol shown in picture) - is a low light used before the picture is taken to narrow the pupils. Red eye is usually caused by low lighting and using the flash. To reduce red eye, move external flash further away from camera lens, increase the overall lighting, use photo editing, and make sure that the subject isn't too far away and looking directly into the camera.


Flash exposure compensation - lets you adjust the strength of flash if flash is causing your subject to be underexposed, overexposed, or causing hot spots.


Flash sync - helps with well exposed subject and black background caused by flash, by illuminating subject with flash and then leaving shutter open to lighten the background. Slow shutter speeds may cause blurring. Sometimes you have the option to use front curtain (1st curtain) or rear curtain (2nd curtain) sync. Front curtain is where flash occurs when the 1st curtain opens and rear curtain is where the flash occurs when the 2nd curtain opens. Front curtain will make lights streak in front of the subject whereas rear curtain will make the lights streak behind the subject.


4. There are different flash attachments for you to choose from:


Flash diffusers - reduces harsh lighting and shadows and create natural looking photos. Can be home made from semi-opaque or opaque items placed over your flash.


Flash reflectors - White object that you bounce your flash into in order to spread the effect of the flash in a wider area and make it less direct. They soften light, lower direct lighting and harsh shadows, and make colors and textures softer. If making your own use white non-tinted or neutral toned materials unless you want to throw colored light onto your subjects.


Ring flash - flash that goes around the lens of your camera; ideal for close ups without shadows.


Leaf shutters - (as shown in picture) - allow faster flash sync speeds.







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