Friday, February 28, 2014

Whirlpool gas stove

Whirlpool Gas Stove


I have a Whirlpool Gas Stove that is about 2 yrs old. When I press bake and start the oven starts to preheat. (10 min). I hear the pilots ignite and the oven starts to heat up, but after 1 minute it shuts off completly. The stovetop burners are working fine. What could be the problem? The stoves message plate is reading E2- F1. Any help would be appreciated. Hello Mommasue1229. Welcome to Gas Appliances topic and our Do-It-Yourself Web Site. Below are some of the error codes. Try this test first. Unplug the appliance for several minutes. Then plug it back in. Doing so may reset the circuit board. Check door latch as indicated below. Range/Stove Oven Fault Codes, Common to Whirlpool E1 and E2 - Check door/latch switch - Replace switch if defective. F1 - Possible defective ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) Wiring harness shorted or change power relay board (PRB) test many brands of Ranges/Ovens that are flashing a F1 fault code: ***Disconnect power to stove. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC). Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2 to 2 wide. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on. Turn power back on to stove. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC. After approx. 30 minutes if you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad. Carefully check the wires to and from the oven temp sensor. Regards Good Luck. Web Site Host Gas Appliances Topic Moderator. Energy Conservation Consulting Services Gas Appliance Problem Diagnostics and Technician Services. Hello everyone, This is my first post, and I chose to reply to this thread instead of starting my own because my Whirlpool gas stove shows the exact same error message, but my stove shuts down after working fine for about 40 minutes every time. I phoned the maintenance and support dept. and they told me they're not sure what's causing this problem, but that changing the Microcomputer and touch panel will definitely fix it, or I could just change the switch and hope that will work, but they're not so sure about it. I've looked for these parts in my local hardware store, but I couldn't find any, so I chose to look them up over the internet. I found this whirlpool parts e-shop that had both parts, but the switch is $42.27 , while the Microcomputer is $229.95 . So my question is whether or not it's worth taking my chance in buying the less expensive switch, instead of the touch panel. Thank you. Hello HelpingHand and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and to the Gas Appliances topic. So my question is whether or not it's worth taking my chance in buying the less expensive switch, instead of the touch panel. In My Opinion, (IMO) it is always best to attempt the repair using the least expensive part and using the easiest method possible. If the $42.27 switch fixes the problem, great. If it does not, at least you have made an attempt using the least expensive part and using the easiest method possible. There is now a new switch already installed, which may or likely would need replacing some time soon anyway... Should the switch not resolve the problem, then there is no other likely choice but to replace the more expensive parts. The method I described above is not one a service tech would use but merely one a do it yourself person often must resort to use. Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book. Additional Suggestions: Read the manufacturers on line web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available on line in a PDF file. Cautionary Reminder Note: Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first. Read The Sticky Help Note In This Topic: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808 Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread. Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician. Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up Drive Safely. The Life You Save, May Be Your Own. Hey Sharp Advice, I'm gonna go ahead and replace the switch, like you suggested. I sure hope this does the trick. Thanks alot! I have a Whirlpool Gas Stove that is about 5 yrs old. When I press bake and then press start, the 10 min preheat timer begins but the pilot never ignites so the oven never heats. When I press broiler and then press start, I hear the ignitor clicks once, then a pause, then once again and nothing happens after that; the broiler never comes on. I'm assuming it'a an ignitor issue but any help would be appreciated. Thanks. I bought this stove in July of 2010. (Whirlpool Gas Stove model # WFG114SVQ0) I am having a problem trying to fix the oven. It just won't work no matter which part I replace. I replaced the Oven igniter (PART NUMBER: 98005652) first because it was broken in the middle. Then I replaced the Gas valve (PART NUMBER: 98014893) and it still didn't work. After spending that much money I decided it was time to read a little about our unit before spending any more money on parts. I found that the oven temp sensor needed to OHM at about 1000-1100 Ohms at 70 degrees room temp. So I checked it and it seem to be OK. (Not open during OHM testing) I checked for lose connections but all checked out OK. The only thing left to check is the control panel/ timer electronic unit. I disconnected it thinking that might reset it, but it didn't reset the time. I am thinking that it has a battery that keeps it running even after the plug is unplugged. My question for the control unit is if I take it a part and remove the battery will it reset the unit or will it erase the operation software on the BIOS chip? Also is there a way to reset the unit and get error codes from it? It doesn't show an error code now or before it stopped working. Most electronic devices has a way to access the BIOS or show error codes for the unit I was wondering go about doing that with this unit? I did check if there was any amps coming from the control unit and my meter showed the amps start out slow and rise to 3.4 and then slowly go back down to zero. This was a test of amps to the oven igniter. Thank for any help anyone has to offer, I am stuck now and need help to figure out what I need to do next. Sincerely, mfoytek








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